The Cape Fife Trail (10km one way), located in Naikoon Provincial Park, at the north end of Graham Island, is an old settler's road. Look carefully and you may see remains of a few cabins.
Photo credit: BCeh.com British Columbia Travel Guide
What a fantastic weekend! Cool, clear weather and a hike on the Cape Fife Trail to the east coast of the Islands.
Photo credit: BCeh.com British Columbia Travel Guide
BC Parks and the Council of the Haida Nation built a new cabin at the end of this trail a few years ago, providing an excellent shelter with a woodstove, table and bunkbeds for those wanting to spend a night or two beside Hecate Strait.
The trail was long (10 km) but with the cool temperatures any muddy ground was kept solid and we made good time getting to the cabin in just over two hours. The trail is level all the way mostly following the old settlers road that supplied the many homesteads in the area in the early 1900’s. Some remnants of old cabins and the major projects the settlers undertook to drain the land are still visible along the trail and the endless rows of driftwood stretching down the beach from the cabin were amazing.
Photo credit: BCeh.com British Columbia Travel Guide
We spent most of our time beachcombing, which unveiled many treasures but no glass balls that had drifted across from Japan. Maybe next time. I can’t wait to get back!
Photo Credits: Ryan Conroy, Club Tread.com
How to find the Cape Fife Trail:
Drive toward North Beach along Hwy 16 (northeast of Masset) entering the Naikoon Provincial Park. The paved road soon turns to gravel and becomes Tow Hill Road. Continue driving past Agate Beach
Campground until you reach the Tow Hill Parking Lot at the Hiellen River bridge. Cross the bridge and on the right is the Cape Fife trailhead sign.
Note: The Cape Fife Trail can be extended to a 2-3 day hike from the Cape Fife trail north to East Beach, Rose Spit and then North Beach back to the trail head. For the seasoned hiker it can take the form of a 5-7 day hike from Tlell up East Beach to the Cape Fife Trail or around Rose Spit and end at the trail head by Tow Hill.
Photo map credit: BCeh.com British Columbia Travel Guide
In 2005, National Geographic Traveller magazine voted Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve as the best national park in North America. The ‘new’ Gwaii Haanas Marine Protected Area and Haida Heritage Site, established in 2010, makes this the first area in the world to be protected from mountain top to sea floor. The ‘land’ portion of Gwaii Haanas covers the southern portion of Moresby Island while the marine portion extends 10 kilometres offshore from the coastline. Gwaii Haanas is only accessible by boat or floatplane.
Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve was established as a result of the well-publicized logging protest on Lyell Island in 1985. The Gwaii Haanas Agrement, signed in 1993, is an agreement between the Canadian government and the Haida Nation to cooperatively manage the area.
Visitors are drawn to Gwaii Haanas for the wilderness experience, Haida cultural sites, wildlife, the natural hot springs among other attractions. Charters or kayak rentals can be easily made
(http://www.gohaidagwaii.ca/ or http://www.qcinfo.ca/). There are a number of licensed Gwaii Haanas tour operators offering trips from one day to several weeks in length.
This map can also be found at http://www.gohaidagwaii.ca/images/upload
/HaidaGwaiiPadMapFront%281%29.pdf
Day trips in Gwaii Haanas often include visiting Skedans, Tanu or Windy Bay village sites or Hot Springs Island. Haida Watchman cabins are located at the various village sites and the ‘watchmen’ are available throughout the primary visitor season, to provide information about the area and ensure the protection of the site.
Skedans village is located on Louise Island on a peninsula at the head of Cumshewa Inlet. In the 1800s, this village site was home to approximately 450 Haida living in an estimated 26 longhouses. Approximately 56 monumental cedar sculptures were recorded as found at the village site. Unfortunately, due to decay, the poles and long house structures are barely visible today. Despite this, a visit to this site is a powerful experience.
Hot Springs Island is one of the most popular places to visit in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve. The island features 3 natural hot spring pools located in a pristine wilderness setting overlooking Juan Perez Sound. A walk along a pathway parallel with the beach gradually rises allowing a choice of hot pools from oceanside to a view from the ‘mountain' top.
Tanu village is located on Tanu Island on Laskeek Bay. In the 19th Century, approximately 550 people resided in an estimated 25 longhouses in this village. Records document approximately 31 mortuary poles and 15 mortuary existed on this site. The remains of these structures now lie almost hidden in moss and grass.
Windy Bay on the eastern coast of Lyell Island, was a large village site in the 19th Century and a camp throughout the 1985 blockade to protect Lyell Island from logging. A ‘longhouse’ styled cabin named "Looking Around and Blinking House" stands as a reminder of the Haida victory at Lyle Island.
One of the best known Haida sites in Gwaii Haanas is the UNESCO World Heritage Site at SGang Gwaay (also known as Ninstints). SGang Gwaay village located on Anthony Island is known for the 32 totem and mortuary poles standing alongside the cedar longhouse. Many of these structures remain in good condition. While standing in the midst of carpets of moss and decaying monuments from another century, one is left with an overwhelming sense of awe.
A trip to SGang Gwaay will require a multi-day trip if done by boat. Float plane access is an option, for shorter visits, and accommodation and meals are available at one of the 3 accommodation providers in Rose Harbour (advance bookings are required). See http://www.gohaidagwaii.ca/ or http://www.qcinfo.ca/ for more information on charters and contacts.
Visiting Gwaii Haanas is an adventure – an experience you will never forget. There are many options for visiting Gwaii Haanas – plan ahead and leave some extra days to visit the many sites and attractions in Graham and Moresby Island communities.
There is so much to experience on Haida Gwaii – you could spend weeks here and wish you had more time!
It seems a bit odd to be writing about biking in December, however, we are generally able to ride bikes year round albeit a bit wet in the winter months - nothing that a good set of fenders won't take care of.
Bikes are becoming increasingly popular on Haida Gwaii for commuters and for recreational use. Most of the roads on Haida Gwaii are relatively 'flat' and traffic-free, yielding great cycling opportunities. There are also numerous opportunities for mountain biking on the islands' many unpaved logging roads.
Visitors often transport bikes on BC Ferries from Prince Rupert ($5-subject to change). Bikes can also be boxed and brought on the plane or rented on island. See http://www.gohaidagwaii.ca/what-to-do/biking/ for more information.
There are approximately 150 kms of paved road on the islands. Highway 16 from the Village of Queen Charlotte to the Haida village of Old Massett is primarily flat, is a two lane highway and has very little traffic. Tow Hill Road from Masset to Tow Hill (15km) is a paved and gravel secondary road through Naikoon Provincial Park with beautiful forest and ocean views.
A local cycling club, Derailleurs in the Mist hosts an annual 'Race at the Edge' in early August. This 100 km road cycle race is open to all levels, and attracts novices as well as serious competitive cyclists. Check out their Blogspot http://ditmcyclingclub.blogspot.com/2009/02/road-cycling-on-haida-gwaii.html or contact Jeremy Hyatt at jhyatt@qcislands.net for more information.
The BC Ferries terminal is located just west of the Haida village of Skidegate and east of Queen Charlotte. The Kwuna ferry crosses from Skidegate Landing (Graham Island) to Alliford Bay (Moresby Island), throughout the day and evening. A paved highway connects Alliford Bay to the community of Sandspit, 14kms/9miles to the east. This stretch of highway is breathtaking and worth the extra few kilometers of travel.
If you have a bike that can handle gravel roads, the opportunities are endless. There is an extensive network of logging roads on both Graham and Moresby Islands. Many of these roads are no longer used for active logging, and some have ditches across them that prevent vehicle traffic. There is also an unpaved logging road connecting Port Clements to Queen Charlotte. Maps are recommended for back road travel.
Explore the backroads leading you into abandoned pioneering sites, old railway and logging sites! Many of the logging roads on Moresby Island and the southern part of Graham Island ascend mountains, providing spectacular views.
The waters surrounding Haida Gwaii are well known for excellent salt water and fresh water fishing. Salmon and Halibut provide for exciting fishing adventures!
Crabbing and catching prawns is part of the experience too. Throw some traps over the side of your boat or place them on North Beach on Graham Island, and simply wait for the tide to roll in and out!
The most popular salmon species for recreational fishing are Chinook and Coho. Chinook salmon are the largest salmon and can be caught from spring to early fall. The 'smaller' Coho salmon can be caught in the summer and early fall.
Groundfish such as Halibut and Ling Cod are delicious! Halibut, the largest flatfish in BC waters can weigh over 200 kg!
The following is a general guide to salt water sport fishing schedules on Haida Gwaii:
Spring (Chinook) Salmon April to September
Sockeye Salmon May to July
Coho Salmon July to September
Chum Salmon July to September
Halibut March to September
Spend a day on the water with a local guide. You can have your catch cleaned and packaged at a local fish processing facility in Masset or Queen Charlotte or ‘do it yourself’ and enjoy a feast of fresh caught fish.
My Husband and I came to Haida Gwaii and fell in love with the Islands many years ago. We found a perfect home in Port Clements on Masset Inlet. Thinking of retirement, we decided to open Smillie's Bed & Breakfast in 2007 to share what we love – the ocean, the islands and fresh locally grown and wild harvested food (http://www.gosmillie.com/default.html).
We are blessed to have access to such an abundance of local food on Haida Gwaii. Fresh produce and locally raised meat can be found with ease on Haida Gwaii – I understand there is even a directory being published to make ‘shopping’ easier than ever.
Island farmers and producers bring their wares to weekly Farmers Markets in each of the island communities. Spend the morning at the markets - they are also a social event! Fresh greens, local produce and an abundance of wild fruit in the summer are excellent and well worth waiting for.
Our family buys locally grown food to share with our guests. We buy our bacon at Island Meats across the street where it is freshly processed and packaged – now that’s convenience! I buy real free range eggs for my Bed and Breakfast as opposed to those from the stores that have been imported from many miles away. We have received numerous compliments on the ‘locally grown’ breakfasts that we serve. What a difference fresh can make!
I recently went to an island-wide food event in Port Clements (the Future of Food on Haida Gwaii) at which participants discussed various means to increase local food production on Haida Gwaii. We do appreciate having access to fresh healthy food on Haida Gwaii!
A visitor to Haida Gwaii may notice a significant number of backyard gardens throughout the islands… The local Farmers Institute and Islands Food organizations are proactive in organizing workshops to support food production on Haida Gwaii, from beginners to farmers.
Experience Haida Gwaii – our fresh healthy food will invigorate you while you tour the islands, walk the beaches and forests and kayak or sail around Haida Gwaii. Come visit!
When you have reached the edge of your world, ours begins…
Haida Gwaii (Queen Charlotte Islands) is Canada’s most remote archipelago and is located approximately 90 nautical miles west of Prince Rupert, BC. Access to our islands is made by boat (BC Ferries) or air (Air Canada and Pacific Coastal).
Our climate is mild even in the winter and allows for outdoor recreation activities year round. The summer months are busy ones for accommodation and service providers as it is our primary season for visitors. Life slows down for islanders from October through May.
Photo Credit for Hot Spring Island: Gwaii Haanas Park
Fall and spring are ideal times to book a vacation – our numerous accommodation providers will have more time to spend talking with you and helping you identify attractions and activities that you may not have been aware of.
Activities on Haida Gwaii include sport fishing, surfing, crabbing, clam digging, beachcombing, wildlife watching, charters to Gwaii Haanas and other remote areas, kayak and boat rentals, museums, heritage sites, the Art Route Tour, and much more!
Photo Credit: Anvil Cove Charters
Wildlife you may see when visiting on Haida Gwaii includes Sitka black-tailed deer, black bears, bald eagles, ravens (they are BIG and very crafty!), Orca and Grey whales, sea lions and seals.
Photo Credit for Sitka Deer and Eagle: Anvil Cove Charters
Photo Credit for Black Bear: Gwaii Haanas Park
The whales can most often be seen in the spring – something to consider when planning your vacation.
Surfing – one of the better kept secrets on Haida Gwaii, is becoming increasingly popular. The Annual Surfing Expression Session is held in November each year – come on over and experience the pristine Haida Gwaii surf! Lessons and equipment rentals are available any time at North Beach Surf Shop http://www.northbeachsurfshop.com/
Photo Credit: Surf Haida Gwaii
Be your own guide or let one of our many knowledgeable tour operators serve you.
Accommodations are available in each community as well as ‘floating hotels’ on the water (fishing lodges) – check www.gohaidagwaii.ca for more details. The Queen Charlotte Visitor Centre will also assist you to plan your vacation and have a reservation service www.qcinfo.ca
Haida Gwaii is home to many talented artists using a variety of mediums to produce art ranging from the traditional to contemporary forms.
The Art Route program connects artists with visitors by maintaining a list of artists who open their studios to the public.
The Haida Gwaii Art Route program was developed through the volunteer efforts of the Queen Charlotte Island Arts Council (www.hgartscouncil.ca/) in 2003. Haida Gwaii Tourism (www.gohaidagwaii.ca) assumed responsibility for the program in 2008.
· The brochure provides addresses, maps and information on each studio so that visitors can take a self-guided tour through the art community of the islands.
· The islands are well known for the strong artistic tradition of the Haida people, and several well-known Haida artists are featured in the brochure. As well, these islands have attracted and nourished the artistic talent from other people.
· The work of many local artists draw inspiration from the rich natural environment of the islands. Many incorporate local materials into their works.
Suggested Itinerary: Plan a route that takes you to several studios in each community. Plan ahead and make appointments with the artists you wish to visit since many do not have a set schedule.
Explore the connection of art to the land, for example: ask to accompany artists as they gather materials such as cedar bark for weaving or wood for carving, or visit sites that artists mention as inspirational to their art.
For historical photos of traditional art and Haida villages, try Haida Monumental Art by George F. MacDonald (Vancouver: UBC Press, 1983) available at most local bookstores.
