Bicycle Touring on Haida Gwaii

It seems a bit odd to be writing about biking in December, however, we are generally able to ride bikes year round albeit a bit wet in the winter months - nothing that a good set of fenders won't take care of.

Bikes are becoming increasingly popular on Haida Gwaii for commuters and for recreational use. Most of the roads on Haida Gwaii are relatively 'flat' and traffic-free, yielding great cycling opportunities. There are also numerous opportunities for mountain biking on the islands' many unpaved logging roads.

Visitors often transport bikes on BC Ferries from Prince Rupert ($5-subject to change). Bikes can also be boxed and brought on the plane or rented on island. See  http://www.gohaidagwaii.ca/what-to-do/biking/ for more information.

There are approximately 150 kms of paved road on the islands. Highway 16 from the Village of Queen Charlotte to the Haida village of Old Massett is primarily flat, is a two lane highway and has very little traffic. Tow Hill Road from Masset to Tow Hill (15km) is a paved and gravel secondary road through Naikoon Provincial Park with beautiful forest and ocean views.

A local cycling club, Derailleurs in the Mist hosts an annual 'Race at the Edge' in early August. This 100 km road cycle race is open to all levels, and attracts novices as well as serious competitive cyclists. Check out their Blogspot http://ditmcyclingclub.blogspot.com/2009/02/road-cycling-on-haida-gwaii.html or contact Jeremy Hyatt at jhyatt@qcislands.net for more information.

A popular route includes cycling Graham Island from Old Massett to Queen Charlotte, checking out the attractions along the way. Check our map at the end of this page and also http://www.gohaidagwaii.ca/images/uploads/HaidaGwaiiPadMapFront.pdf.


The BC Ferries terminal is located just west of the Haida village of Skidegate and east of Queen Charlotte.   The Kwuna ferry crosses from Skidegate Landing (Graham Island) to Alliford Bay (Moresby Island), throughout the day and evening. A paved highway connects Alliford Bay to the community of Sandspit, 14kms/9miles to the east. This stretch of highway is breathtaking and worth the extra few kilometers of travel.


If you have a bike that can handle gravel roads, the opportunities are endless. There is an extensive network of logging roads on both Graham and Moresby Islands. Many of these roads are no longer used for active logging, and some have ditches across them that prevent vehicle traffic. There is also an unpaved logging road connecting Port Clements to Queen Charlotte. Maps are recommended for back road travel.

Explore the backroads leading you into abandoned pioneering sites, old railway and logging sites! Many of the logging roads on Moresby Island and the southern part of Graham Island ascend mountains, providing spectacular views.

Come visit our world!

Sport Fishing on Haida Gwaii

The waters surrounding Haida Gwaii are well known for excellent salt water and fresh water fishing. Salmon and Halibut provide for exciting fishing adventures!   Crabbing and catching prawns is part of the experience too. Throw some traps over the side of your boat or place them on North Beach on Graham Island, and simply wait for the tide to roll in and out! The most popular salmon species for recreational fishing are Chinook and Coho. Chinook salmon are the largest salmon and can be caught from spring to early fall. The 'smaller' Coho salmon can be caught in the summer and early fall. Groundfish such as Halibut and Ling Cod are delicious! Halibut, the largest flatfish in BC waters can weigh over 200 kg! The following is a general guide to salt water sport fishing schedules on Haida Gwaii: Spring (Chinook) Salmon          April to September Sockeye Salmon                      May to July Coho Salmon                           July to September Chum Salmon                          July to September Halibut                                     March to September   Spend a day on the water with a local guide. You can have your catch cleaned and packaged at a local fish processing facility in Masset or Queen Charlotte or ‘do it yourself’ and enjoy a feast of fresh caught fish. Visit http://www.gohaidagwaii.ca/what-to-do/ for a list of local charter operators. The best known areas for ocean fishing include the west coast (via Skidegate Narrows) and north coast (via Masset).  Freshwater fishing is also popular. Salmon are abundant in local rivers in the fall while Cutthroat Trout and Dolly Varden are readily available year round. Throughout the winter, there are excellent Steelhead runs on Haida Gwaii. The Tlell, Yakoun and  Copper Rivers are great for Steelhead fishing.  Come visit us - supper's waiting!

Local Food on Haida Gwaii – An Amazingly Fresh Experience!

By Lorette Smillie

My Husband and I came to Haida Gwaii and fell in love with the Islands many years ago. We found a perfect home in Port Clements on Masset Inlet. Thinking of retirement, we decided to open Smillie's Bed &  Breakfast in 2007 to share what we love – the ocean, the islands and fresh locally grown and wild harvested food (http://www.gosmillie.com/default.html).

We are blessed to have access to such an abundance of local food on Haida Gwaii. Fresh produce and locally raised meat can be found with ease on Haida Gwaii – I understand there is even a directory being published to make ‘shopping’ easier than ever.

Island farmers and producers bring their wares to weekly Farmers Markets in each of the island communities. Spend the morning at the markets - they are also a social event! Fresh greens, local produce and an abundance of wild fruit in the summer are excellent and well worth waiting for. 

Our family buys locally grown food to share with our guests. We buy our bacon at Island Meats across the street where it is freshly processed and packaged – now that’s convenience! I buy real free range eggs for my Bed and Breakfast as opposed to those from the stores that have been imported from many miles away. We have received numerous compliments on the ‘locally grown’ breakfasts that we serve. What a difference fresh can make!


I recently went to an island-wide food event in Port Clements (the Future of Food on Haida Gwaii) at which participants discussed various means to increase local food production on Haida Gwaii. We do appreciate having access to fresh healthy food on Haida Gwaii!


A visitor to Haida Gwaii may notice a significant number of backyard gardens throughout the islands… The local Farmers Institute and Islands Food organizations are proactive in organizing workshops to support food production on Haida Gwaii, from beginners to farmers.


Experience Haida Gwaii – our fresh healthy food will invigorate you while you tour the islands, walk the beaches and forests and kayak or sail around Haida Gwaii. Come visit!

Experience Haida Gwaii in 2012!

When you have reached the edge of your world, ours begins…

Haida Gwaii (Queen Charlotte Islands) is Canada’s most remote archipelago and is located approximately 90 nautical miles west of Prince Rupert, BC. Access to our islands is made by boat (BC Ferries) or air (Air Canada and Pacific Coastal).

Our climate is mild even in the winter and allows for outdoor recreation activities year round.  The summer months are busy ones for accommodation and service providers as it is our primary season for visitors. Life slows down for islanders from October through May. 

Photo Credit for Hot Spring Island: Gwaii Haanas Park

Fall and spring are ideal times to book a vacation – our numerous accommodation providers will have more time to spend talking with you and helping you identify attractions and activities that you may not have been aware of.

Activities on Haida Gwaii include sport fishing, surfing, crabbing, clam digging, beachcombing, wildlife watching, charters to Gwaii Haanas and other remote areas, kayak and boat rentals, museums, heritage sites, the Art Route Tour, and much more!

 Photo Credit: Anvil Cove Charters

Wildlife you may see when visiting on Haida Gwaii includes Sitka black-tailed deer, black bears, bald eagles,  ravens (they are BIG and very crafty!), Orca and Grey whales, sea lions and seals.

Photo Credit for Sitka Deer and Eagle: Anvil Cove Charters

 Photo Credit for Black Bear: Gwaii Haanas Park

The whales can most often be seen in the spring – something to consider when planning your vacation.

Surfing – one of the better kept secrets on Haida Gwaii, is becoming increasingly popular. The Annual Surfing Expression Session is held in November each year – come on over and experience the pristine Haida Gwaii surf! Lessons and equipment rentals are available any time at North Beach Surf Shop http://www.northbeachsurfshop.com/

 Photo Credit: Surf Haida Gwaii

Be your own guide or let one of our many knowledgeable tour operators serve you.

Accommodations are available in each community as well as ‘floating hotels’ on the water (fishing lodges) – check www.gohaidagwaii.ca for more details. The Queen Charlotte Visitor Centre will also assist you to plan your vacation and have a reservation service www.qcinfo.ca

‘Like’ us on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/pages/Haida-Gwaii-Tourism/185862411468748) or follow us on Twitter (hgtourism)

Take the Art Route Tour

Haida Gwaii is home to many talented artists using a variety of mediums to produce art ranging from the traditional to contemporary forms.  

The Art Route program connects artists with visitors by maintaining a list of artists who open their studios to the public.

The Haida Gwaii Art Route program was developed through the volunteer efforts of the Queen Charlotte Island Arts Council (www.hgartscouncil.ca/) in 2003. Haida Gwaii Tourism (www.gohaidagwaii.ca) assumed responsibility for the program in 2008.

      · The brochure provides addresses, maps and information on each studio so that visitors can take a self-guided tour through the art community of the islands.

      · The islands are well known for the strong artistic tradition of the Haida people, and several well-known Haida artists are featured in the brochure. As well, these islands have attracted and nourished the artistic talent from other people.

      · The work of many local artists draw inspiration from the rich natural environment of the islands. Many incorporate local materials into their works.

Suggested Itinerary: Plan a route that takes you to several studios in each community. Plan ahead and make appointments with the artists you wish to visit since many do not have a set schedule.

Explore the connection of art to the land, for example: ask to accompany artists as they gather materials such as cedar bark for weaving or wood for carving, or visit sites that artists mention as inspirational to their art.

More Information: 

Download the Art Route brochure at

http://www.gohaidagwaii.ca/what-to-do/art-route-tour/ or pick up a copy at a local Visitor Centre or participating studios.

For historical photos of traditional art and Haida villages, try Haida Monumental Art by George F. MacDonald (Vancouver: UBC Press, 1983) available at most local bookstores.

Haida Weavers

Haida weaving, once an important part of everyday life, is an art still being passed on through the generations. Some of the finest historic weavings are from the Haida and displayed prominently in museums. Today, Haidas have revived the weavings for ceremonial use as well as sale.

Facts:

• Weaving was traditionally practiced by women, although today there are a few men practicing this art.

• As with many Haida traditions, weaving suffered during the 1800's when populations plummeted due to disease. Luckily, a handful of women kept the art alive.

• Some of the best known Haida weavers in recent times have been residents of Haida communities in Alaska (the Kaigani Haida in Ketchikan, Craig and Hydaburg). 

• Traditionally weaving materials included spruce root and red cedar bark. Today Haida basket weavers work mainly in cedar bark, but spruce root weaving continues. 

• Historically, weavers created clothing, hats, sleeping mats, ceremonial objects, storage baskets and other items for everyday use. Haida weaving is now recognized internationally and many pieces sell for thousands of dollars at galleries and Native American markets. 

• Red and yellow cedar bark is harvested by stripping a long, thin piece of bark from a standing tree. Only a small section of bark is removed so that the tree keeps growing. The strong, flexible inner bark is removed and cut into strips, which must be soaked in water before being used. Bark stripping is done in the Spring and early Summer.

• Thin, strong spruce roots are harvested from around the base of a young living tree. The roots must be singed and stripped of the outer bark, then split several times before it can be stored for later use. Spruce root can be woven tightly enough to make water-resistant baskets and hats. Like cedar bark there is a limited time in early summer and fall for harvesting.

• Haida weavers also use wool to created Ravenstail and Chilkat robes, aprons, leggings and other ceremonial regalia. The "finger weaving" technique employed mountain goat wool traded from the mainland. Today weavers use merino wool which is usually hand/thigh spun. Designs are a combination of traditional and contemporary.

• At public events, you will see many Haida people wearing traditional wide-brimmed hats, but also woven ball-caps, top-hats and other creative/contemporary variations on traditional theme. You may also see chiefs and people of high rank wearing Ravenstail Robes, aprons and headbands which have yellow, black and aqua-blue patterns on a white background.

Suggested itinerary:
Contact a weaver by checking the Art Route brochure (http://www.gohaidagwaii.ca/what-to-do/art-route-tour/) for artists who open their studios to the public. Make an appointment in advance since many studios are home based and are not open on a set schedule.

The Haida Heritage Centre sometimes has a weaver working on site. Call 250-559-7885 to inquire: http://www.haidaheritagecentre.com/

Ask weavers if you can arrange to accompany them as they gather materials for the forest.

Further information:
The best source of information is the weavers themselves. Some weavers have web sites that describe their work, but contacting them in person is usually the easiest way to get information.

Haida weavers Marlene Liddle marlene.liddle@mhtv.ca and Dolly Garza dgarza@haidagwaii.net can be contacted for more information.

Cedar. Stewart, Hilary. Vancouver: Douglas & McIntyre, 1984 has a section on the use of cedar bark in weaving.

Mushroom Harvesting on Haida Gwaii

Picking mushrooms is a seasonal industry on the islands providing work for local and visiting harvesters. It is also a popular pastime for locals who are interested in gathering their own food.

Photo compliments of Haida Gwaii Culinary Coop

Facts: 

• The primary species harvested commercially on Haida Gwaii is the Chanterelle, (Pacific Golden Chanterelle, Cantharellus formosus). There are several other common edible species such as Boletes, Oyster mushrooms, Shaggy Manes, Hedgehogs, Blue and Black Chanterelles and the occasional Pine mushroom.
• The harvesting season ranges from late August until late October.
• Chanterelles are found primarily in second growth Hemlock and Spruce forested areas. 
• The best known area for harvesting is Skidegate Lake on Moresby Island (about 45 minutes by logging road from Sandspit). Harvesters from off-island frequently set up temporary camps along the shore of the lake.
• Chanterelles are bought by agents for off-island companies and shipped directly to Vancouver and then on to the European and Asian markets. There are local efforts made to purchase the Chanterelles for locally made products.

Suggested itinerary:
In September and October, visit the mushroom camp at Skidegate Lake to meet pickers and buyers. The logging road from Sandspit to Skidegate Lake can be driven in a car, but some rental companies may not allow rental cars on the dirt roads.

Important note: Try picking mushrooms only with someone who is experienced at identified the species.

Further information:
You can find more on the biology of the chanterelle at http://www.mushroomexpert.com/cantharellus_formosus.html

Contact the Queen Charlotte Visitor Centre at info@qcinfo.ca or (250) 559-8316 to get current road information for the logging roads.